winding coils

[framey]

:evil:

[imported_NeedleJack]

Yep - pain in the ass. Basically you can buy all the winding shit from either Bicknee or Unimax. In a nutshell here's the steps.

1. Iron Core with screw in - pop a plastic thingy on the end and leave a 1/4 inch exposed.

2. Take a hot pin and make two holes. Note: You want your first hold to be close to the core and the 2nd to be close to the edge. This is because we will be winding the core and you wont be able to have an exit hole. One for the wire to go in and begin winding - and one to come out when your done.

3. In a nutshell - 8, 10, 12 wraps. We call them wraps, electronics gurus have another idea of what a wrap is. Some other time on that one. Anyway, a wrap is a layer. Wrap that bitch tight, laying the next wire right by the previous one.

4. When you get to the end you can take rubber cement, super glue, or just wing it - bottom line you gotta come back now (this equals layer two). The reason for gluing, is if you fuck it up you don't want your wire to come all unraveled.

5. Repeat the process until you have 8, 10, 12 layers. Then you will be at the beginning were you started. Come out the hole you created near the edge.

6. Snip the two wires - the entry one and the exit one exposing at least an inch and 1/2 of wire. Take some shrink wrap tubing and shrink wrap each wire leaving about 1/4 inch.

7. Take a piece of typing paper and cut it so that it will fit exactly around your coil and glue it. (at this point you can take a picture of whatever you want and also glue it around the coils and then shrink wrap tube it like you did the wires.

8. Repeat the process for your second coil.

9. Daisy chain the two together with the wire closest to the core - (twist em up and shrink wrap again.

10. The other wires will be soldered from the front coil to the front stand0ff on your machine = solder it.

11. Rear coil to the rear stand0ff = solder it.

12. Time for the capicitor. Smaller the number the faster it runs. Ie., Liners = 22 cap is good Shaders = 47 and higher. Also, 47 is a good number for all around machines, or middle of the road.

13. Capicitors have a little symbol on them >>. The wire coming out of the >> side needs to be soldered to the front stand0ff and the other one to the rear.

There you go - My 411 on how to wrap your own coils. The only time I would advise doing this is if you want to get tricky and make your machines totally custom. I've made some pretty weird machines. I used to be into the whole color scheme thing. I would go through magazines and find cool pictures and stick em on my coils as well as all the shrink wrap tubing comes in about 20 different colors. So I would make the colors match my machine - or pick 2 or 3 different colors for a color scheme of sorts.

Glad I could enlighten you to what a pain in the ass this is.

[framey]

:evil:

[voodoo]

i'll just buy mine ! :wink:

[DOPPLENHAKEN]

this maybe a stupid ?but do you(or someone in your company)wind them or do you buy them from someone else :oops: .and i have this eikon catolog.and is has two differant types of wire high tem. and solderable,i know you guys said there a pain in the ass.but i want to try it but witch wire is easy and which one is durable etc.. :oops:.i don't know i guess i'm glutton for punishment

[imported_NeedleJack]

We purchase them elsewhere - most companies use a machine to wind them. If you do your homework you can get them as low as $5.00 for a set w/ the capicitor. Or you can wind them. I prefer to buy them.

Regarding two different kinds of wire - you wanna make sure you are using magnetic wire.

[framey]

:evil:

[DOPPLENHAKEN]

my spauling ones keep breakin ,the thing is its always the same place the inside wire,when i unwrapped it, it looked to me as if there was a nic in it :? well i re wraped it and bent the wire more than i did new,and it didn't break.i don't know but to me thats kinda fishy :shock: