View Full Version : What voltage to run at when riding the needle
mozzer337
06-21-2006, 03:42 AM
Im am trying to ride the needle with a long stroke, but I am unsure as to what voltage to run at. If I set a point gap of say 1.2mm after I bend my back spring up slightly to get the desired air gap, so as to lengthen the stroke. What would my voltage look to be set at with ten wrap coils. I know there wouldnt be any magical setting but I have to run my machine at the max which is about 16v on my power supply to get it to run ok, which seems a bit high to me. Would this be considered too fast or about right for the circumstances I have highlighted? If I run on a lower voltage the needle seems to snag slightly and doesnt glide over the surface of the tattoo very well ( I make sure that the retraction of the needle is above the depth of the actual tattoo so its not the needle being dragged, thats why I assume its the lack of speed of the needle in conjunction with my hand speed ). My machines are only cheap mass produced efforts but I have read on this board that any machine can be tuned to run reasonably well with the right knowledge. I am unsure of the spring thickness sizes but they are short wide springs which look like a lining set to me. Oh, and another quick question what would the 'o' ring do to affect this set up? Im not really getting the 'o' ring usage. I have trawled the back posts but it is hard to find specific answers when there is so much conflicting advice on set ups and tuning.....
.....and dont be alarmed by my experimenting. This whole thing is being thoroughly tested out on pigskin and grapefruit before I carve my leg up!!!!!
Inkster
06-21-2006, 12:12 PM
Sounds like the air gap or contact gap is too wide, I bet it sounds like a tin of spanners as well, now get a new set of springs and start again.
Incidentally are you using pre bent front springs or bending or rolling your own from flat springs. What size air gap did you set the machine for with the contact screw wound back or removed?
A picture of yor machine showing clearly the armature bar and springs would be helpful.
mozzer337
06-22-2006, 03:23 AM
I think I might try and shorten the stroke a tad. I was planning on setting my needle out of the the tube some way so I could watch the needle as I worked, I find it easier that way, and the idea with the long stroke was to retract to pick up a good amount of ink from the tube.
To ride the needle what would be the ideal contact gap, and air gap and what springs would be the best. I have read that 0.18 are the ideal size.
Inkster
06-22-2006, 10:16 AM
Have you tried a diamond tip yet, that way you can "ride the tube" so to speak and see exactly what you are doing.
mozzer337
06-22-2006, 10:29 AM
No I havent, unfortunately I have to use disposable grips and tips until I can afford a clave. I will be adding some more equipment to my set up soon, as I have a mortgage pending with extra cash borrowed so I can be a little more adventurous with my future purchases.
I want to get 2 new machines that I can have real faith in. Can you recommend 2 that would be ok, 1 for lining and 1 for shading/colouring. I would like to purchase 2 from NeedleJacks but dont really know one from the other to be honest.
Most of the machines advertised on various websites state they are suited for both lining and shading, but I would prefer to buy one for each job so they have the correct springs, coils, etc.
Inkster
06-22-2006, 11:47 AM
No I havent, unfortunately I have to use disposable grips and tips until I can afford a clave.You can purchase disposable diamond tipped tube assemblies.
I want to get 2 new machines that I can have real faith in. Can you recommend 2 that would be ok, 1 for lining and 1 for shading/colouring. There are dozens of machines which are good and even more that are not so good, all down to personal preferance and it would not be fair to Needle Jack to talk brands on here.
Most of the machines advertised on various websites state they are suited for both lining and shading, but I would prefer to buy one for each job so they have the correct springs, coils, etc.There is a little bit more to it than just adjusting the contact screw gap, that is how I started out but I now have dedicated liner and shader machines from one manufacturer.
mozzer337
06-22-2006, 12:27 PM
Thanks for all the advice Inkster. Im at a crossroads at the moment and I dont know what to do. Persevere with the cheapo machines I have or invest in some better ones.
I know I have to learn the tuning side of things but I want to buy some machines that are worthy of the art once they are tuned. Needlejack has quite an assortment to choose from, and theres a better than average chance I will buy from him, but whatever I choose, unfortunately for me it will be decided on whether I like the colour of it, or if looks cool, because thats about as far as my experience at buying machines allows me to go at the moment.
I think I am edging towards the "Ironstar" for a liner and I have heard the "Strongman" mentioned in various threads but I cant seem to find it on the Needlejack site.
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