Prototype machine

[L_Pease]

Here's my first go at a complete build. I have built quite a few machines before this one but always using other's frames. This one started with bits of scrap steel and a chance to play with the TIG. Burned my drill press up a few days before I started this so I had to wing it with a hand drill. everything turned out right on except the chuck is about 1-2 degrees tilted towards the front coil which worked out good because the needles fell right in the sweet spot with no arch in the bar haha. I used this today on a black and grey piece. Shaded with it for a little over four hours solid no breaks and it never got warm. I was building it to have a really long stroke and be mainly a soft shader but I didn't expect it to be so soft. It was like sketching with a dull pencil. Used a 9 mag around 8 volts and this thing was the easiest machine I have ever shaded with. I've got 4 more in the works... been to cold to go out in the garage at night. Anyway... check this out.

3/8" core 8 wrap coils and a 47uf cap. I borrowed the thumbscrew from another machine because I forgot to put one in before I brought it to the shop today.
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x307/jinxthirteen/prototype1.jpg
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x307/jinxthirteen/prototype2.jpg

[Inkspressit]

Don't ya just love makin yer own junk?, there's somethin to be said about knockin a machine up form bits and pieces, that thing while not the prettiest looks AOK, I quite dig the charm of a few scruffs and marks here and there adds character... NICE JOB!

[voodoo]

I can see the angle but it's not bad..The machine looks quite nice!!

[kellyink]

nicely done bro...looks real good

[black raven]

nice job man, love that style frame , its like a modified Coleman, very versatile..are those PF coils or did you wind those puppies yourself?

[hotdiggitydawg]

Mmmm mm, Nice build dood, love the hand built look... can feel the love that went in to it!
But the contact screw angle doesn't make sence, especially when theres a hole to fill...
Any hoo... dringenburg eat your heart out lol

[Rockabillytattoo]

Digging the blued finish, nice work. Nothing feels better than building it yourself and using it, especially when it runs good for ya!! Only question is why all the washers on the abar? Probably helps a bit on keeping the hit softer since it adds a bit of weight on the abar assembly.

[black raven]

nice job man, love that style frame , its like a modified Coleman, very versatile..are those PF coils or did you wind those puppies yourself?
sorry i ment Troy Glen, not Paulo F. , man this not being able to edit your own post shit sucks...

[inipi67]

thats a sweet machine there Pease.........nice work, love that raw look....no glitz, just mechanical, cool. thats a nice, smooth bead with the tig I see on the bottom too, nice.


Peace Brother R.:cool:

[L_Pease]

thanks guys. Black raven, The coils are stolen from another machine I don't use much. I'm fresh out of solder lugs and I am waiting on more. I wrapped a mix of an 8 wrap back coil and a 10 wrap front too so I'm interested to see how it runs with that setup .

Hotdiggitydawg, the angle on that contact screw is to hide how long that screw is haha. When I set it up in the front hole It looked like a lightning rod it stuck up so far. Moved it back so I could tilt it out of the way.

Rockabillytattoo, Those washers were just to take up length on that screw...ran out of shorty's and I was dying to use it...I'm sure they add some weight, but you'd have to really get into the physics of it as they weigh next to nothing...I love heating steel to get those colorations too. After I did the first machine like that, I have done it to every other since. Everybody gives them that oil blackened finish anyway. This makes it a little different. I'm gonna' do a motorcycle frame with that look too after I find out about the safety issues with heating it. This one had a relly nice purple to it, but it turned blue so quickly...the next few will be really cool.

Inipi, thanks on the compliments...I am really trying to get perfect looking TIG beads. I'm getting better everytime. Nothing looks better that TIG I think. That bottom one, I layed a nice bead on the inside of the fram then ground the outside close to 30 degrees on the bevel then mostly did a fusion weld with very little filler rod. Looks almost like a really even stick bead. TIG is so much fun. If I heat mild steel to that purplish blue ish state and let it cool on its own without quenching, do you think it would still get brittle? There seems to be mixed opinions on that.

[hotdiggitydawg]

Cool beans Mr Pease...
To heat Steel/iron and let it cool in still air is called "Annealing" it (or to "Anneal").
It does the opposite of tempering... It softens it. It's good to anneal a piece before cutting, Filing, drilling, etc... Get into the nitty gritty and it can lower carbon content in certain grades which has it's uses....
Here's a link Clicketyclick (http://www.key-to-steel.com/Articles/Art15.htm)

[L_Pease]

thanks for the info...I thought annealing came at much lower temps...when I've seen guys do it I never saw any discoloration unless it happened so fast that I did'nt see it. Maybe quench a little then?

[undercover art]

I dig the machine, it looks like it's got the mojo just the way it is (worked well right?) how did you do yer tube vice?

[INKERMAN]

Yes,definitely a cool one....L_Pease

[black raven]

"I wrapped a mix of an 8 wrap back coil and a 10 wrap front too so I'm interested to see how it runs with that setup "..... sweet, an old paul rogers trick...dont worry, you will likey...;).

[inipi67]

Ok....heres a couple of things you can look at, simplified. Just some shit I learned when I was messin' with the Blacksmithing stuff (which, I need to get back into, I miss it lol)

Quenching first...if you have say , a frame that your working on and your going to be bending it or anything, you dont want to quench your steel until your through, first. Because sometimes it will get brittle, depending on how high of a temperature you achieved. If you heat to approxamantly 1500d F. or a good red color, or higher it does become more brittle. But...you can also bring it back by just reheating to red again and letting it cool, one of two ways.
Dawg was right,to an extant, Annealing is letting it cool in the air ,which is the way most common steel is done for machining and milling and stuff. But, I've always heard this process called Normalizing and Annealing being a process where the metal is cooled at a slower rate for improved softness and pliability, say...like in Blacksmithing you would take it from heat, directly to putting it in ashes, lime, or vermiculite. It causes it to cool much slower. A side note, just in case you wanted quench but not be worried about brittlness... you can temper it by putting it in your oven at home at 425degrees for about an hour...this will make it soft enough to bend but take away some of its brittleness, but still retaining its hardness.
One thing to keep in mind is whether you have Hot rolled or Cold rolled steel......Cold rolled has less carbon, say 18-20 % carbon, compared to Hot rolled which has 23-28% carbon.....hot rolled is also full of impurities being that most is made of recycled metals, therefore leaving hard and soft spots in the stock.
I dont know ....maybe this helped a little lol.

Peace Brother R.:cool:

[Inkspressit]

[QUOTE=L_Pease;75240]it went blue so fast QUOTE]

lol, i hear ya dude... paly with heating and your soon get to know your color grads, eg the slight yellowing to almost bronzing then into the red, the plum, then blues (and if yer lucky a couple of greens).

I usually heat mine to just just before the colours im after and hit somewhere else on the frame with my tourch, if it doesn't turn ill quickly run the flame by it again....... finally i plunge the frame in oil to cool.

Cooling em in ashes, charcoal etc will case harden em for ya.